How to tie the uptide/downtide rig

Dave Barham explains why using this set-up can pay dividends when fishing for the likes of cod and bass in fast tides

 

You may have guessed by now that I like to keep my sea fishing simple. I enjoy light-tackle fishing, basically using the lightest rod and reel (not mainline) set-up I can in any given situation to catch a half decent fish.

This can be anything from using a 7g spinning rod for targeting black bream and mackerel, to using a 15lb class rod for tope and conger eels. I really don’t mind, as long as I get my ‘fight fix’.

One of the rigs that has helped me catch a number of species in recent years is this Uptide/Downtide Bolt Rig. It’s a variation on a simple running leger boom rig, but it has proven itself to be much more effective – especially in fast running, shallow water.

By shallow I’m talking 10-40ft, like most UK river estuaries. This is my ‘go to’ rig when I’m targeting winter cod in the Bristol Channel or River Mersey, where the tides can be fierce.

HOW IT WORKS

Unlike a normal running leger rig, which allows a fish to pick up your bait and swim off as far as it likes, this rig limits the process due to there being a swivel in the mix that prevents your lead weight from sliding up the mainline.

Theoretically, a fish that has picked up a bait on a running leger can move 10 feet and then spit out the bait. The mechanics of this bolt rig prevent that from happening.

Fish feeding in fast tides often take anything that flashes past. They grab it and ask questions later. If a cod finds your bait in a two-knot tide it will pick it up, but by the time it has decided whether or not to swallow it the chances are that the tide will have moved the fish a few feet away from the original pick up point. That’s where the bolt rig comes in. 

While the fish is moving away from your lead weight, the hook has a chance to grab hold. Unlike a running leger rig where the hook and hooklength would move with the fish, in this rig they are fixed in place with just a few inches of movement allowed. As a result the hook actually gets dragged out of the fish’s mouth, which in turn gives a far better chance of finding a hold rather than if it were just sitting there in the same place.

Try it next time you fish for cod or bass in fast-running water. I think you’ll be impressed with how many more fish you catch.

Tying the rig

Step 1. 

First make sure you have tied a size 3 rolling swivel to the end of your mainline or leader.

First make sure you have tied a size 3 rolling swivel to the end of your mainline or leader.

Step 2.

Tie a 12in length of 40lb fluorocarbon (this is the bolt section) to the other end of the swivel.

Tie a 12in length of 40lb fluorocarbon (this is the bolt section) to the other end of the swivel.

Step 3.

Thread a small boom and bead on the 12in of 40lb fluoro and tie a size 3 swivel to the end.

Thread a small boom and bead on the 12in of 40lb fluoro and tie a size 3 swivel to the end.

Step 4.

Now tie 24in of 30lb fluoro to the end of the size 3 rolling swivel to create the hooklength.

Now tie 24in of 30lb fluoro to the end of the size 3 rolling swivel to create the hooklength.

Step 5.

Tie a size 4/0 Manta hook to the end of the 30lb fluoro trace. You can adjust the hook size to the type and size of fish you are targeting.

Tie a size 4/0 Manta hook to the end of the 30lb fluoro trace. You can adjust the hook size to the type and size of fish you are targeting.

Step 6. 

Clip on your lead weight and you’re good to go. When uptiding you could omit the boom and replace it with a size 4 rolling snap swivel.

Clip on your lead weight and you’re good to go. When uptiding you could omit the boom and replace it with a size 4 rolling snap swivel.



How to tie a mono twisted boom to prevent tangles

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There's no doubt that booms improve bait presentation and help eliminate tangles. Here Paul Kerry shows how to make a mono twisted boom that can be fished as either a flapper or clipped down rig...

HERE’S ANOTHER VARIATION of the blood loop used as a fixed position hook snood connection point. What you end up with is a very flexible, thin boom that has enough stiffness to hold the snood clear of the trace line for flapper rigs, but is fl exible enough to use clipped down as well.

Its nylon construction keeps weight down and minimises trace costs. It is most effective with short hook snoods. In fact I have used it with a worm bait filling a very short hook snood so it hangs directly off the end of the boom. That makes it almost totally tangle free.

1. Hold the trace line between fingers and thumb and form a loop. The initial size isn’t too important as the finished boom length can be adjusted later. Make it a reasonable size

1. Hold the trace line between fingers and thumb and form a loop. The initial size isn’t too important as the finished boom length can be adjusted later. Make it a reasonable size

2. Holding one end of the line still, roll the other end between your finger and thumb turning the line to generate twists in the loop. Form a few twists, then…

2. Holding one end of the line still, roll the other end between your finger and thumb turning the line to generate twists in the loop. Form a few twists, then…

3. Pull each end away from the other, forcing twists towards the end of the loop, and tighten them. Continue twisting and tightening until you get required boom length

3. Pull each end away from the other, forcing twists towards the end of the loop, and tighten them. Continue twisting and tightening until you get required boom length

4. Once the boom is formed you take the trace line and loop the ends round. Then put in about four turns as you would when tying an ordinary blood loop

4. Once the boom is formed you take the trace line and loop the ends round. Then put in about four turns as you would when tying an ordinary blood loop

5. Take the end of the mono boom and pass it through the centre of the turns of your knot

5. Take the end of the mono boom and pass it through the centre of the turns of your knot

6. Moisten the turns then gradually pull the ends of the trace line to fully bed down the knot. Ease gently with your fingers to avoid line damage

6. Moisten the turns then gradually pull the ends of the trace line to fully bed down the knot. Ease gently with your fingers to avoid line damage

7. You can improve the stand-off ability by threading a short length of silicone tubing on your hook snood. This can be pushed over the snood knot and onto the end of your mono boom

7. You can improve the stand-off ability by threading a short length of silicone tubing on your hook snood. This can be pushed over the snood knot and onto the end of your mono boom

8. The boom also has the flexibility to be used with clipped rigs. After release it will flick back straight to keep the snood clear of the main trace line. The bait clip needs to be of a type that has movement to ensure correct set up. It’s virtually impossible to tie to a fixed bait clip

8. The boom also has the flexibility to be used with clipped rigs. After release it will flick back straight to keep the snood clear of the main trace line. The bait clip needs to be of a type that has movement to ensure correct set up. It’s virtually impossible to tie to a fixed bait clip

How to tie the two-hook flapper

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The two-hook flapper follows the traditional monofilament paternoster design, which can be constructed with one, two or even three hooks.

For big fish or rough ground, one hook is the logical choice while for small fish taken over clear ground three hooks offer better odds of successful fishing.

Two hooks are a popular compromise and very often the choice of the freelance angler for runof- the-mill venues and also mixed species fishing.

The term flapper refers to the fact that the hook snoods hang loose and flap during the cast, so obviously, it is not the rig to choose if you need to fish a long-range.

When distance is a priority clip down the bait close to the main trace line. We have shown you how to do this in earlier rig building sequences in this series.

For uncomplicated short and middle range casting from piers and beaches and for a host of species, the two-hook flapper is hard to beat.

1. Cut the rig bodyline at an angle with your line clippers, the point makes threading the swivels crimps and beads easier. Slide on a crimp followed by a micro bead then one of the 45lb swivels, then another micro bead and another crimp. Repeat this for each hook snood you want to create

1. Cut the rig bodyline at an angle with your line clippers, the point makes threading the swivels crimps and beads easier. Slide on a crimp followed by a micro bead then one of the 45lb swivels, then another micro bead and another crimp. Repeat this for each hook snood you want to create

2. With all the components in place, you should double-check they are in the right sequence. Then you add the Genie lead link to the end of the line with a three-turn grinner knot

2. With all the components in place, you should double-check they are in the right sequence. Then you add the Genie lead link to the end of the line with a three-turn grinner knot

3. Measure out the length of the rig, between 3ft and 5ft is most popular, then cut the line and tie on the top clip or swivel, again using a grinner knot

3. Measure out the length of the rig, between 3ft and 5ft is most popular, then cut the line and tie on the top clip or swivel, again using a grinner knot

4. Position the 45lb swivels with beads and crimps either side along the length of the rig body and secure in place by lightly crushing the crimps with crimping pliers. Pinched lightly they can be adjusted to suit hook snood positions.

4. Position the 45lb swivels with beads and crimps either side along the length of the rig body and secure in place by lightly crushing the crimps with crimping pliers. Pinched lightly they can be adjusted to suit hook snood positions.

5. Now tie the hook snoods on the swivels using a three-turn Grinner knot. Snood lengths, usually between 12in and 20in long, are critical in relation to the swivel spacing on the rig’s mainline. Do not allow the hooks to overlap the snood or link above or below because they will tangle.

5. Now tie the hook snoods on the swivels using a three-turn Grinner knot. Snood lengths, usually between 12in and 20in long, are critical in relation to the swivel spacing on the rig’s mainline. Do not allow the hooks to overlap the snood or link above or below because they will tangle.

Construction tips

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● The rig’s overall length can be varied to suit particular venues, conditions or species. A short, stubby 3ft long rig is ideal for fi shing from high piers or rock marks because it puts bait closer to the sea bed. A short rig with short snoods can also be cast further.

● Longer 5ft-plus rigs spread hook baits over a wider area and are the ideal choice for surf or estuary fi shing. In surf a longer rig increases the chances of placing bait where the surf gouges the sand and marine life, a notorious hot spot.

● Longer snoods are usually favoured for some shy-biting species, but if they are used remember to extend the overall length of the rig body.

● If fi shing at short range from high venues like piers, the top hook is likely to be lifted off the bottom by the angle of the mainline. Make the top snood slightly longer than the bottom snood to allow for this.

● Beads or sequins are optional attractors on the hook snoods and can be held in position by adding a bait stop above them. Make these from 1cm length of silicon sleeving. Pass the line through the sleeve twice and then pull the line tight to form the stopping device.

● Snood line breaking strain depends on what the rig is being used for. In general 25lb is the choice in winter because it can cope with the teeth of small fi sh.

How to tie a conger rig

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It is important to remember that conger eels have strong jaws and sharp teeth, so they will make short work of a normal hooklength. That means you need a strong hooklength and Malcolm suggests 150lb mono.

The actual rig is a simple running leger with the 150lb hooklength carrying a size 8/0 or 10/0 O’Shaughnessy pattern hook. The lead weight is clipped on a simple zip slider, which is threaded either directly on the reel’s mono mainline or on a mono leader tied to braid mainline. Make sure you place a bead either side of the swivel. The mainline and hooklength attach to a strong rolling swivel, so choose a quality brand with a breaking strain of at least 100lb.

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You'll need size 8/0 or 10/0 hooks, strong swivels and zip sliders

1. Thread the end of your 150lb mono line through the eye of your hook and start the knot by taking the line four times around itself

1. Thread the end of your 150lb mono line through the eye of your hook and start the knot by taking the line four times around itself

2. Take the end of the line through the loop nearest the eye and then back through the large loop. Wet the line with saliva and begin to pull tight

2. Take the end of the line through the loop nearest the eye and then back through the large loop. Wet the line with saliva and begin to pull tight

3. Once you have teased the knot together, give it a good pull to make it tight and then trim off the tag end with nail clippers or a pair of scissors

3. Once you have teased the knot together, give it a good pull to make it tight and then trim off the tag end with nail clippers or a pair of scissors

4. Cut the your hooklength to about 18 inches and tie a 100lb test swivel on the end. Thread a bead, zip slider and bead on your mainline and tie to the swivel

4. Cut the your hooklength to about 18 inches and tie a 100lb test swivel on the end. Thread a bead, zip slider and bead on your mainline and tie to the swivel

5. It’s worth checking your knots are tight by attaching one end of the swivel to a hook and pulling the line at the other end. Then repeat for the other knot

5. It’s worth checking your knots are tight by attaching one end of the swivel to a hook and pulling the line at the other end. Then repeat for the other knot

6. Add the required plain lead weight to the zip slider and your conger rig is ready for action. All you need now is to attach your mackerel flapper bait

6. Add the required plain lead weight to the zip slider and your conger rig is ready for action. All you need now is to attach your mackerel flapper bait

How to tie the three-hook clipped trace rig

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This is probably the most highly-developed trace in the beach angler's armoury. It is certainly very efficient at delivering small baits big distances without splattering the load across the sky.

THE CLIPPED VERSION of a three-hook mono paternoster rig offers increased casting distance as well as bait care during its flight out to sea.

Hook baits are clipped close to the bodyline of the rig to make the overall trace streamlined. Construction is more complicated because dimensions of each snood needs to be precise so that the hook can be clipped tightly to the clip below.

There are a host of clip systems available, although by far the most efficient and fail safe is the combination of a Breakaway Impact lead and the Breakaway Cascade swivels - no other hook bait clip device comes close. This system clips the lower hook to the Impact system built into the lead and then the hooks on the snoods above clip into a small hook on the Cascade swivel below.

On impact with the sea the lead releases the lower hook, which in turn releases the hooks above in a cascade affect. Other bait clips can jam up and remain clipped up during the duration of the cast.

Competition anglers often use this rig because it offers maximum distance with multi baits. Triple hook baits produce a large scent trail and let the angler try a range of different baits.

The rig is also a favourite among pleasure anglers fishing for smaller species like dabs, whiting, pouting, soles and flounders.

The dimensions of the rig have an effect on how far you can cast and a short stubby rig with all three-hook baits spaced over 4ft will cast further than a rig with three hooks spaced along a 6ft trace.

Hook baits clipped closer to the lead will improve the balance and aerodynamic shape of the rig and that's why the next step for increased distance is the two-up, one-down clipped rig.

However, each rig design and its dimensions offer separate advantages and these should be considered in relation to conditions, venues and the species sought.

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RIG BUILDING TIPS

Hook snood dimensions are critical because if the hook is loose on the bait clip it will fall off too early while it is flying through the air and sometimes before you even cast.

Replacing the crimp below each snood swivel with a mono stop knot or Power Gum stop knot allows the snood to be adjusted up or down the trace body to alter the length and tension, and also makes it far easier to replace your hook snood.

The addition of a Gemini SRT Spring below the top hook snood swivel brings increased tension to all three clipped hooks preventing premature release.

If using crimps to secure the hook snood with swivels and beads make sure the micro beads you use have the correct size hole to allow just the line to pass through them and not the whole crimp.

To tie hooks to snoods lengths accurately, thread on the hook and position where you want it to be after the knot is tied - then move it one inch up the snood and tie off with a five-turn half blood knot. The extra inch allows for the take up of the knot.

Alternatively you can tie hooks to the snoods and then crimp them in position or move the stop knots on the rig body to complete the rig.

Because the hook bait will be forced up the snood during flight each snood needs a bait stop. The most efficient is a 1cm diameter sequin or bead stopped by a tubing stop or stop knot. It can then be adjusted down or up the snood to clamp the bait in position prior to casting.

Hooks between size 2 and 1/0 are best; larger size hooks and bigger baits will make the rig top heavy and force it to spin and wobble during casting.

RIG USES...

Type of fishing: Medium and long range. Suitable for all casting styles, although take care if casting off the ground because hooks can come off their clips. SRT Springs help prevent this. Especially effective for casting delicate baits, which can get ripped off the hooks during power casts.

Types of venue: Ideal for clean beaches, piers and estuaries for smaller species, match fishing and general all-round fishing when bites are important.

Species: Pouting, whiting, dabs, flounders, soles, codling, dogfish and other small fish as well as match fishing.

Hook size: Size 2 up to 1/0 (strong long shank pattern)

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Swivels trapped between beads and stop knots are moveable so snoods can be snugged up tight on their bait clips

Swivels trapped between beads and stop knots are moveable so snoods can be snugged up tight on their bait clips

Close-up of a Cascade swivel - note that the handy bait clip is built into the swivel

Close-up of a Cascade swivel - note that the handy bait clip is built into the swivel

Baits are prevented blowing up the snood by a sequin stop, again adjustable due to a Power gum stop

Baits are prevented blowing up the snood by a sequin stop, again adjustable due to a Power gum stop

The bait clip built into the Breakaway Impact lead holds the bottom hook of the rig in place

The bait clip built into the Breakaway Impact lead holds the bottom hook of the rig in place

A Gemini SRT Springs tensions the snood so the hook does not slip off its bait clip

A Gemini SRT Springs tensions the snood so the hook does not slip off its bait clip

How to tie the loop rig

Looking for those extra vital yards with three hook baits? Then try the clever loop rig, which puts bait so far out you'll wonder why you never used it in the first place

IF ULTIMATE RANGE with triple baited hooks is essential to you then this clipped two-up, one-down rig, often called the loop rig, is what you need. For freelance fishing it can be adapted to a one-up, one-down rig, that is suitable as a long distance winter choice for all species that forage for food well out from the breakers, including codling and cod.

The design of this three-hook terminal rig ensures that the lower two baits are clipped directly in line astern of the lead weight. This reduces drag and enables the rig to be cast as if it were a two-hook clipped rig rather than a more unwieldy three hooker.

There are a host of bait clip systems available, although by far the most efficient and fail-safe release, especially suitable for this rig, is the pairing of a Breakaway Impact lead and two Breakaway Cascade swivels.

A Cascade is placed in the lower hook snood (2in to 8in from the hook) and it's the loop of line produced when the one-up hook is clipped to this Cascade that gives the rig its popular name.

Some anglers seem paranoid about the loop, but it doesn't impede or restrict the rig’s performance in any way.

The dimensions of the rig are important as a short stubby rig with all three hook baits spaced within a 2ft length will cast further than a rig with three hooks spaced over 4ft or more. Hook baits clipped closer to the lead weight will improve the balance and aerodynamic shape of the rig and that's why the loop rig works so well, especially when used in a shorter length.

CONSTRUCTION ADVICE

● This is a powercasting rig, so the rig body line must be strong enough to withstand power casting. Use 60lb as a minimum, 70lb is better.

● Snood lengths are crucial to the rig's antitangle performance and should not overlap too far. The lower snood does overlap the first hook length, but they only tangle during the retrieve which makes it ideal for fishing in strong tide. However, variations with very long overlapping snoods are used by match anglers for shybiting fish, while a stubby version with short hook snoods is far less prone to tangling and will cast even further because the hook baits, including the top hook, are closer to the lead.

● The addition of a Gemini SRT spring is crucial to this rig, as it is with many other extreme range clipped rigs. Placed under the top snood swivel, it provides the tension that prevents any of the bait clips from releasing early in flight. It's only when the impact lead hits the water that the Cascades release simultaneously.

● Using a thicker diameter snood line for the longest, lower snood helps prevent tangling. You can return to a lighter hooklength for the line between Cascade swivel and hook. The length of this hook snood can be adjusted to suit the bait being used; 6in+ for two lugworms, 1in for a peeler crab bait.

● Crimps can be used but the bottom stop on the middle swivels and SRT spring are better constructed from Power Gum or mono using a four-turn Grinner knot. This allows snood tension to be adjusted or repositioned.

● Using a particular coloured bead holding the lower snood helps you identify the rig when sealed in a wallet.

WHAT CAN I USE THE RIG FOR?

Type of fishing: This rig and its variants, including the one-up, one-down, are perfect for both the match or freelance angler who wants to put his baits on clean ground at long-range. Species: Suitable for codling, whiting, dabs and dogfish, while the two-hook version is for cod, plaice, rays and smoothhounds.

Hook type and size: Aberdeen hooks work best and the hook size generally governs the type and size of fish you seek. Use size 1 or 2 for match fishing and taking small species. For bigger species a size 1/0 upwards to a 3/0 is more suitable.

Sea conditions etc: The loop rig is rated best for use in strong tide because its design allows an overlap between the two lower snoods, which can tangle. However, it is generally accepted that tangles only occur when the rig is retrieved. On impact with the sea and sea bed in tide it should stay untangled.

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How to tie the telephone wire paternoster

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● 60lb mono for the rig body
● 18-25lb mono for snoods
● 1 x 60lb swivel
● 2 x 40lb swivels
● 4 x beads - any size can be used, but most shore anglers prefer micro beads because they tend to catch less weed
● 2 x size 4 to size 1/0 hooks
● 1 x Gemini Genie lead link
● A short length of telephone wire

Standard telephone cable contains various thin coloured plastic coated wires, which can be cut with scissors, cutters or nail clippers.

1 Thread a bead, then a swivel, and then a bead on the 60lb rig bodyline, repeating the sequence for the second snood

1 Thread a bead, then a swivel, and then a bead on the 60lb rig bodyline, repeating the sequence for the second snood

2 Tie a Genie link to the end of the rig line using a three-turn Grinner knot or a fi ve-turn half blood. Measure the rig at 5ft, cut and tie on 60lb swivel

2 Tie a Genie link to the end of the rig line using a three-turn Grinner knot or a fi ve-turn half blood. Measure the rig at 5ft, cut and tie on 60lb swivel

3 Scrounge some scrap telephone wire. The main cable can be opened out to reveal the thin, plastic coated coloured wire

3 Scrounge some scrap telephone wire. The main cable can be opened out to reveal the thin, plastic coated coloured wire

4 Take a length of the telephone wire and twist it around the rig body above and below the beads either side of the bottom swivel

4 Take a length of the telephone wire and twist it around the rig body above and below the beads either side of the bottom swivel

5 This traps the swivel between the two beads. Eight turns is enough and allows the swivel to be moved. Repeat for the top snood

5 This traps the swivel between the two beads. Eight turns is enough and allows the swivel to be moved. Repeat for the top snood

6 Tie on the hook snoods and then the hooks using a grinner or half blood knot so that they do not overlap each other, the lead link or top swivel

6 Tie on the hook snoods and then the hooks using a grinner or half blood knot so that they do not overlap each other, the lead link or top swivel

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How to tie the two-hook paternoster

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Components

Lead link

Size 1 swivel to top of the trace

Four crimps

Two size 3 swivels for attaching snoods

Four micro beads

Two size 1/0 to 3/0 Kamasan B940

60lb mono for trace body

25lb mono for hooklengths.

1. Tie the top swivel to the end of the trace body using a grinner knot

1. Tie the top swivel to the end of the trace body using a grinner knot

2. The rig body should be 36in long, but cut 42in to allow for the knot

2. The rig body should be 36in long, but cut 42in to allow for the knot

3. Chamfer the end of the line with a blade

3. Chamfer the end of the line with a blade

4. Slide on a crimp, bead, swivel, bead and crimp and repeat, then tie on the lead link

4. Slide on a crimp, bead, swivel, bead and crimp and repeat, then tie on the lead link

5. Fix the lower snood swivel at 5 or 6inches from the lead link

5. Fix the lower snood swivel at 5 or 6inches from the lead link

6. Fix the top snood swivel at 24in from the lead link

6. Fix the top snood swivel at 24in from the lead link

7. Tie a hooklength to each swivel

7. Tie a hooklength to each swivel

8. The top snood should be 10in long and bottom one 15in long

8. The top snood should be 10in long and bottom one 15in long

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Shore Terminal Rigs: Basic Rig Making Tools

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The basic rig making tools

Simplicity is the secret of most terminal rigs, and the basic tools required to construct your own rigs are few and uncomplicated.

Line clippers

The most essential tool of the rig maker, a pair of nail clippers, ensures that all knots are trimmed close. Hooks and swivels that sprout a long tag of monofilament are not only unsightly to the rig purist, but they put fish off the bait or collect weed on the rig. Fish bumping into the short spike of mono may not be deterred from eating the bait, but if they are, then that's a fish missed – better to trim knots close after they have been fully tightened. The clippers can also be used to cut the end of your mono at a sharp angle to assist with the threading of beads, crimps etc. They will also cut wire line, although this tends to wear them out quickly.

Available in several sizes, the largest clippers are the most efficient. They are, though, made mainly in the Far East in cheap chrome plate steel and tend to rust, blunt and get lost in the tackle box. Look out for a tough new set of stainless clippers from Fox!

Rig measure

Special rig jigs are available, or you can use a tape measure to set the length of your rig and keep snoods uniform. However, a measure is not essential in rig construction. Experience allows you to judge lengths of snoods etc so that they do not overlap or tangle. The overall length of a rig, for instance, can be 6ft – the length of your outstretched arms. Snoods can vary between a few inches and several feet long. The rules on this are simple – there are no rules!

Crimping pliers and pliers

Crimping pliers ensure that crimps are closed, but not crushed too tightly. If they were, they would damage the rig’s main line, a point to beware of when using other types of pliers. Crimping pliers can also be used for pulling knots tight on hooks and swivels – especially hooks, which can slip if you hold them in your fingers. Never hold hooks in your teeth or mouth to tension knots, this is asking for an accident! Pliers are also ideal for opening the eye of a lead link or metal boom so that a swivel can be added; offsetting hook points; or bending the eye of a hook for use with a Pennell rig.

Odd tools

Cigarette lighter: Used to blob/melt ends of knots, joints to braid line etc.

Braid scissors: These are essential if you are using braid, which is difficult to trim close with ordinary scissors or clippers.

Side cutters or pliers: Strong side cutters may be required for cutting stainless steel wire, etc.

Hook puller: A safer way of pulling knots tight. Avoid putting hooks near your mouth to tighten knots – it’s Russian roulette, and sooner or later you will get a bite!

Leatherman-type multi-tool: Useful for odd angling jobs. The best ones are stainless steel which resist corrosion if left in the tackle box.

Felt tip pen: Used to permanently mark rig bags with the contents.

Others: Other essentials for shore angling include a sharp filleting knife and a pair of rust resistant scissors.

Rig wallets and storage

Detachable terminal rigs offer the shore angler a way of overcoming several problems encountered when fishing. First, if terminal tackle is damaged, tangled or lost it can be replaced in an instant – simply clip on a new rig. This saves lots of time when the fish are feeding, because a spare rig can be ready baited prior to each cast, while the option to change the rig type, number and size of hooks etc also brings advantages.

Two efficient ways to store terminal rigs include the popular rig wallet and the increasingly popular foam winder which comes from the Continent.

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Rig wallets come in a range of sizes and designs, some with extra compartments for your terminal accessories, line and rigmaking tools. You can expand the capacity of a rig wallet by storing each individual rig in a sealable plastic bag. This keeps the wallet clean when you return a used rig to it. Coiling the rig around your hand is a popular way to store it in a rig bag, although it is likely to tangle unless removed with care. Wrapping the rig around a piece of card can improve ease of removal. Marking your rig bags with the content, such as number of hooks, size, rig type etc improves efficiency. Some anglers use coloured beads of snood line to relate to rig type etc.

Growing in popularity are the Continental rig winders. These are particularly efficient for storing the longer, lighter line rigs used by match anglers, and are far less prone to tangling than conventional rig bags.

Some basic rig components

Terminal rig components and accessories are forever changing, with new ideas coming to the sea angling scene regularly. The rigs in this book include the latest ideas and options, but first here are a few terms and names to help you along.

Rig body line: Specialist co-polymer rig lines are becoming more readily available. These have less coiling ‘memory’ and often more knock strength, and are smoother for knot tying.

Snood line: Similarly, special snood lines are produced that combat the twists and damage caused by small fish and the marine environment.

Swivels: There are a range of types and sizes, with some having a mix of round and diamond eyes specifically for use tying rigs. A minimum of 60lb-plus is recommended for joining rigs to main line etc, while 45lb swivels are standard for hook snoods. Lighter, smaller swivels can be used on some terminal rigs when required. Swivel selection includes round and diamond eye, black and stainless from Fox, Berkley, Mustad and Gemini.

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Clips and lead links: Gemini Genie lead links are required for sinkers and main line quick links.

Crimps: These come in a rage of styles from lots of manufacturers. Short, soft copper crimps or stainless steel are preferred because they do not corrode or damage the line. Plain steel crimps tend to rust.

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Beads: Small micro beads are available from manufacturers like Fox and Gemini, and various tackle dealers. Larger beads can be used as snood stops, or to add attraction to bait. Float beads can be used to raise baits clear of crabs, or to add buoyancy to a bait.

Sequins and blades: 2cm-plus sequins and Fox blades in a range of colours can be used for bait stops, or as fish-attractors on hook snoods.

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Power Gum: This stretchy material in 15lb to 20lb breaking strain, and in many colours, is used to form a stop knot on the rig. Drennan and Fox brands are preferred. Power gum stop knots have a number of uses on the rigs shown here. Mono line can also be used. Telephone wire is a stop gap for an emergency stop knot – available in lots of colours, it is simply twisted around the hook snood.

Rig tubing: Fox Silicone tubing has a host of uses, from making rigs, to bait stops, to snood stand-offs, in all colours.

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Bait clip swivels: Fox and Breakaway (Cascade) swivels with built in bait clips are used for all clipped rigs. In multiples they release simultaneously.

Bait clips: The Breakaway Bait Shield and the Imp Clip are considered the two best bait clip devices after the Impact lead.

Breakaway Impact Lead: Considered the most efficient and fail safe of all bait clip devices – the release clip is moulded into the lead.

Snood clip: This is small clip device takes the place of a swivel on rigs. It is used to secure a hook snood via a short length of tubing.

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